Argus Rangefinder
-They were produced from 1938-1966 in Ann Arbor Michigan. -They have interchangeable lenses (but they are a pain to change). -They had three lenses: a 35mm, 50mm, and 100mm that you could buy for the camera. -They cost $35 originally, which is over $600 in today's money equivalent. -They are made primarily of Bakelite Plastic and Metal Castings. -They have two viewfinders: one to focus with and one to compose your shot with. -They have no metering system, so you use an external meter or use the Sunny 16 rule to set exposure.
So I cleaned the best looking one out of the bunch, the 1942 model, and made sure everything worked by using a dummy roll of film that I have to practice loading and advancing the film and shooting the camera. After I felt confident on the operation, I loaded it up with fresh film and took it into the back yard. I did find it difficult to get it into focus. The focusing viewfinder and the composure viewfinder are small. And while rewinding the film after I was through, I only rewound 1/2 of the roll when I opened up the back (oops) and ruined half of the roll. But I developed it anyway and got just a few in focus out of that half of a roll. Hey, but it was a 76-year-old camera and it worked!
1961 Canon Canonet 19
-35mm film and can shoot to ASA 200 in auto. In 1961 ASAs didn't go very high. But with a lens with a f1.9 aperture, shooting in room light at 1/60 isn't a problem. In manual you can shoot any ASA you want. -Slenium Photocell wraps around the lens element so any filter that is placed on the camera the photocell see's through it so no compensation is needed. Also no battery is needed. -The camera in auto will not let the shutter work if the exposure isn't right. You can push on the shutter button but nothing happens. So in auto you can't shoot under or over exposed.
-The viewfinder, like most rangefinders, is bright and large. Since you're not looking through the lens, frame lines are drawn to show what will be in the frame. Also the aperture setting is at the bottom of the viewfinder to let you know what aperture you're at.
-The film advance lever is located at the bottom of the camera giving the top of the camera clean lines. It's in an odd place, and Canon moved it to the traditional top of the camera in later models. This camera was touted as the poor man's Leica and sold off of the shelves. You can still find these in yard sales for a great price, and they are great lightweight walk around cameras. These are the cameras that gave Canon its popularity from the common man. Still getting used to mine, but so far I love it. Right now it's a 57-year-old camera that still takes great photos and looks great doing it. Get out and shoot! My Film Project
But something was missing. I can't put my finger on it, but it was the sound that a mechanical camera makes. The weight of the camera. Rewinding the film. The analog process I was missing. I listened to a podcast called The Digital Story by Derrick Story, and he also has a blog The Analog Story. I listened and started to get excited about film again. I wanted to crank that crank and manually focus and turn dials that clicked. I wanted to shoot film again. I've heard that shooting film will make you a better digital photographer. It will slow you down. I don't want to go fully to film. I will always be a digital photographer first, but I do want to shoot some film when the occasion suits. How to go about it now in the digital age when film is kind of scarce? First, I got my old trusty 35mm Pentax MX off of the shelf and cleaned it up well. I had to replace the light seals that go around the door. Those are the little felt or foam pieces that keep the light from ruining your film. That was a chore. It took me a couple of times before I got it right, but I did. What about the light meter in the camera? Was it any good? The only way to find out was to get a roll of film, shoot it, and get it professionally developed. I went to my local Walmart and guess what? Film was on sale -- four rolls for five bucks! So I bought 2 ,8 rolls of film. I shot a roll of film in a couple of days and took it to Walgreens to get developed. Well, things have changed in 15 years. They have to send your film off, so it takes a week to get it back. But not really because they don't give the negatives back. You just get a CD with the scanned JPEGs on them. All for 15 bucks! I was not a happy camper over the price. But when I got my photos back, they were all correctly exposed! So yay! Light meter works and is accurate! Now, I can't afford 15 bucks every time I shoot a roll of film, so I had to come up with a way that I could develop them myself. I had never developed color negative film before, but I had done black and white and color slides. I had all of the equipment. I just had to get the chemicals and learn how. So I did. I developed my first roll of film, and it worked out great! I had color negatives! So now I have color negatives that I need to get scanned into my computer so
Now they're in the computer, but still a negative, so there was some processing that needed to be done. The image needed to be inverted to make it a positive image. That could be done in Photoshop. The colors also needed to be adjusted because negative film is made to be projected onto film paper, and the color cast are made for that. The first couple of times I did all of this manually. There are programs that will do this for you. Of course they cost money, and I'm trying to do this on the cheap. I did some research and found a free action that will color correct you photos in Photoshop. It does a pretty good job, better that I was doing manually. It's good enough now that I can live with it. Later on I may want to upgrade to a software that does a better job. So after I get everything into Lightroom, it's just like all my other photos. I can go through my regular work flow and can publish to Flickr, Facebook, Instagram, or even print if I want. It seems like a long process and it is. But I really enjoy it. Analog photography is like listening to LPs on a record player, maybe not as clear and it has pops and scratches. But to me, that's what makes it great. That's all for now. Keep shooting! 'Podcasts' The Ones I Listen to
1. The Digital Story Photography Podcast. This Podcast is currently my favorite and has over 600 episodes that last about 30 minutes each. Derrick Story, a California-based photographer/Author/workshop instructor, covers a variety of different topics related to photography. He also runs The Nimble Photographer and The Analog Story blogs. He is truly a great storyteller and a pleasure to listen to. He is into lightweight gear and shoots Micro 4/3's cameras. He is the one that got me back into film photography again. 2. The Landscape Photography Podcast. This podcast is about landscape photography and is hosted by Nick Page, a Washington State based photographer and a young photographer that has become pretty famous in a short time. He also has a YouTube channel where he will take you with him on his trips around the west coast and abroad on workshops shooting landscapes. His podcasts are very informative and funny at times. He does interviews with famous landscape photographers. His photo editing tips and tricks with luminosity masks have helped me a lot. 3. Tripod. If you like Nick Page, you will like this older podcast. This podcast was done by Nick before he got his own show, and it is much like the landscape photographer podcast. 4. Recompose Photography Podcast. This is hosted by Juan Pons and Andy Williams, two very seasoned and famous landscape and wildlife photographers. Based out of the Northeastern US, they conduct workshops all over the world. They formerly ran the Alpha Mirrorless Podcast for the TWIP (This Week in Photo) network, which is also a great podcast. They go over tips and tricks and gear. Super podcast. 5. Photo Taco Podcast. Hosted by Jeff Harman, a California-based photographer/instructor, this podcast covers a variety of subjects from backing up your photos to astro photography. Very informative. This is a part of the Master Photography Team. So these are my top five podcast shows, and here is a list of good shows that you may also like.
1. Master Photography Podcast. This podcast has different topics from travel photography, portraits, landscape, street photography, and the business side of photography. 2. Photography Tips from the Top Floor. This is a podcast that originates from Europe and is very good. It almost made my top five. 3. The Candid Frame. This podcast centers around interviews with famous and up-and-coming photographers. This podcast has been around for years and is very interesting. 4. This Week In Photo Another well-established podcast with over 500 episodes. 5. Picture This! This is a podcast by Chelsea and Tony Northrup. Both photographers and instructors and very big on YouTube. They usually have a different perspective of topics and are very funny. These are abut 10 podcasts to listen to. There are a lot more, but these are my current favorites. Podcasts are good to listen to while you're doing house work or yard work or even editing photos. They are a good source of info and keep your head in the photography game. So try them and keep on shooting! RAW+JPEG! and why you should shoot this way
Shooting in RAW+JPEG lets you use the power of your camera for processing your images. First, you shoot in RAW because of all of the reasons that you've always heard about. You can correct all of the mistakes better, you can change the white balance on the fly, you can do a lot of stuff with a RAW file that you just can't do with a JPEG. But at the end of the day how many photographs do you really do all of this heavy lifting of the shadows and really working the photograph? The answer for me is not much. This weekend I went out with my photography club and I took 300 photographs. Out of those 300, I really only had to work hard on one photograph to make it look the way I wanted. And I had the RAW file to do that with. When you shoot RAW, what you download onto your computer isn't what you saw on the back of your camera. So you spend time getting that RAW image to look like the JPEG that you saw. Why not just use the JPEG if it looks the way you want it to out of camera? Why spend the time making the RAW look like your JPEG? Just use the JPEG.
Using WiFi and posting to social media. Posting to social media is what I do with most of my photographs. Cameras have been out with WiFi for quite a while, but how many of us actually use them? I must admit that I don't use it often. But using the JPEG file makes it easier because there is less processing that needs to be done, and the file is smaller and easier to transfer via WiFi. I did this this weekend (Memorial Day Weekend). I went to my local Veterans Cemetery and took some shots of the tombstones with the flags. I sent the JPEG to my phone using WiFi, sent it to "Snap Seed" to do a little crop, and then sent it to social media. And it looked great! I could have done this with my iPhone, but I wouldn't have gotten the shot I wanted. Would I do this for all types of photography? No, I wouldn't. I wouldn't do this for portrait photography. Landscape? Maybe. Sports, no. I would shoot JPEG. But photography like travel, urban, street, and almost anything else I would. And I will. So the next photo walk you do, try RAW+JPEG and see what you get. You'll be surprised. Have fun and keep shooting! |