Off Camera Lighting
The first light most of you probably already have is a speed light. This is a light that you can connect to the top of your camera via the hot shoe. They run off of batteries usually 4 AA. This is probably the same
Pack and Head Lights. These lights are not common anymore and have mostly been replaced by
So now you know the different parts and pieces what are the advantages to off camera flash or strobes? 1. You are in complete control of the light. You are not dependent on the sun or anything else that could bother the light source. 2. They are portable. All speed lights and some moonlights are battery powered which means they are portable. You can take them with you when your on a outside shoot. The light can be stronger than the sun but soft at the same time. 3. You can modify the light to be strong or soft. 4. You can be consistent. Once you have your lights set you can take photo after photo and it will be the same. Say your taking photos at an event where you have a photo booth set up after you get your light set you can rotate people in and out without changing camera or light settings with the same results you had on your first subject. 5. Using and learning off camera lighting makes you an overall better photographer because you start looking at light in a different way when not using off camera flash. As you can see there is a lot to off camera lighting. In other blogs to come I'll go over settings and Modifiers and stands. So until the next time. Get outside and shoot!
Get the spots out! Sensor Cleaning
Prevention. The first step in keeping your sensor clean from dirt and dust is prevention. Don't leave your
Cleaning. Most modern camera's have some sort of cleaning function on them. This basically de-magnifies the sensor and vibrates it to let dust fall off. This is worth a try but I haven't had too much success. The next step will involve touching your sensor. Never touch with your fingers! The dirt and oil from your hands can harm your sensor. The only thing that touches your sensor is something that was made to touch your sensor! These products were made to touch your sensor and not to harm your sensor. First you should have access to your sensor. If you have a DSLR camera you will have to get your shutter out of the way. (Read Your MANUAL!) Usually some sort of shutter lockup or cleaning mode will let you see your sensor. Most mirrorless cameras when you take off of the lens your sensor is there is in full view. Some newer mirrorless cameras have some sort of shield that goes over the sensor but this is not the rule but the exception. Know your camera and read your manual!
Cleaning your sensor does not have to be scary and can be done easily just follow your camera manual instructions and the instructions of the cleaning tools and you will have a clean sensor making editing quicker not having to remove spots. So until next week, with a clean sensor, get out and shoot! What I Don't Miss Anymore!
When I first got into the crop sensor sized camera's I like everyone else just had the kit lens. I quickly
So my main kit now consist of a Sony A6500 body, a Sony 10-18mm F4 the new lens Sony 16-55 f2.8mm and the Sony 70-350mm f4.5-6.3. This kit gives me a full frame equivalent range of 15-525mm Range. This is the kit that I leave in my camera bag all the time and are my go to. I do have other specialty lenses that I use for food or Star or Street photography but this is my main kit. Which lately I haven't used a lot but plan to making a change to that situation. So until next weeks discussion grab your kit and get outside and shoot! Lens Hoods and UV Filters?
Lens hoods come in all shapes and sizes and they are always in the box when you buy a lens. Very few lenses don't come with a lens hood in the box. Lens hoods attach on the front of the lens and are for protection against stray light bouncing on or off you lens. Much like if you walk outside and you put your hand out and over your eyes to protect from the sun shining right into your eyes. Without your hands seeing is difficult and you have lots of glare. But when you put your hand over your eyes you can see more clearly. This is how lens hoods work. So when should you use them? Should you only use them when sun glare can be a problem? My answer is use them all of the time. Here is why. There is no disadvantage of not using them. They stick out in front of your lens providing extra
So that's my take on Lens Hoods and UV filters. What's yours? Drop me a comment and let me know if there is anything that you would like me to go over or any questions you would like answered. Until next week keep those lens hoods on and get outside! The Myth About Always Shoot at 100 ISO!
Windy Landscapes- This is when the leaves on the trees are moving and I want them to be nice and still and crisp. So I would first set my Aperture to set the part of the scene that I want in focus. Then I would set the Shutter speed to the speed that will make my leaves nice and crisp. And if my ISO is at 100 and the scene is too dark because of the higher shutter speed I can up my ISO until the exposure is back and like above I
Newer camera's no matter what brand can handle the increase in ISO. A good thing to do is test your camera. You can easily do this by setting your camera on a tripod and shoot many photographs of the same scene using different ISO's and you can see where the highest ISO is that you like or can make a difference in your photography. Where you feel comfortable at. That threshold might be different for different cameras or different people with the same camera. Its all very personal. For me and my main camera its about 6400 ISO. For just run and gun shooting I usually shoot on Aperture Priority and set my ISO to Auto and put a limit to 6400. Anywhere between 100 and 6400 will be fine for me. When I'm on a tripod I usually shoot in Manual mode and manually move my ISO. So that's my soap box speech on 100 ISO. So until next week get out and shoot. If you have any questions please put them in the comments and I'll get back to you as soon as I can. |