Gear You "Actually" Need as a Beginning Photographer #346

March 07, 2025  •  Leave a Comment

Hey Ya'll ! How are you doing today? Hope you've had a great week! This week I want to talk about gear you actually need as a photographer. I just watched a great video by Cody Mitchell on this subject.  I'll be piggy backing his video. Please watch the video on this link Camera Gear You Actually Need as a Beginner. It is a fantastic video and explains in more detail than I am going to in this blog. What he says makes a lot of sense and I believe I have touched on most of the items before in blogs but maybe not as much detail as he does. First of all most of us have way too much gear for what we truly need. I am no exception and am trying to pair down my gear but it's very hard because I do love gear so much. As photographers we think that the better gear we have the better photo's we will produce. In the beginning we think this way and buy all sorts of gear that we do not need.  Lenses and the most expensive body that we can afford and all the accessories that every manufacturer is trying to sell us. But to tell you the truth 80% of my photo's are taken with the same camera and lens combo and all of the other stuff I bring is usually just extra weight. In the beginning we bring all the gear we can and we spend most of our time trying to figure out the correct combo of stuff to use. Paralysis by Analysis . The inability to make a decision when faced with multiple options. We think as beginning photographers that the more gear we have the better chance at getting that winner shot but in fact too many choices especially as a beginner slows you down so much that you miss a lot of shots by the inability to make a decision. So as a beginner as Cody Mitchell says you really only need 6 items and that's what we'll talk about today.

Camera. Of course you need a camera but it doesn't need to be the most expensive camera. As I have said in the past I use "Used" cameras that are cheaper and considerably not as fancy as the newer ones. And as far as I am concerned I get great photo's. And if I don't it's not the Camera's fault it is usually mine. Depending on your budget there are all sorts of options available. Cody goes over a list he has compiled in his video and shares links to a spreadsheet he had made with different budget options depending if you're starting in film or digital photography.

Lens. As I mentioned above I shoot almost all of my photo's with one lens. A zoom lens. It's in the focal range I think you should start with. A standard lens 24-70mm. It will cover a wide range of situations that you will encounter as a beginning photographer. This is also where I think that you should invest the majority of your
budget. A good lens last a long time and will outlast any body that you buy. I think the saying is you date camera bodies but you marry lenses.

Tripod. You should have a good tripod. A sturdy tripod that will hold the heaviest camera/lens combo that you will have. This is an item that you don't go cheap on either. You don't want to break the bank and with tripods ( you easily can) but you don't want to go cheap either . Somewhere in the middle. A good tripod will last for years and years. My travel tripod I've had over 10 years and I've just bought a larger tripod that I expect to do the same.

Camera Bag. You need something that will carry all of your new gear. But you also want it protected also. Bags are my weakness and I have bought bunches of them.  You should have a bag that you can carry with you that is comfortable and protects your gear. A sling bag that can carry your new camera/lens combo is a great choice for walking around town. If you are doing more landscape stuff a backpack will come in handy make sure it has a spot to carry your tripod.

The next two items to me are optional depending what kind of photography you are doing. If you're doing Landscapes or maybe using film. I have both and think when you need them you need them. For me and the type of photography I do Landscape/Travel and Film I consider them essential but if you're doing wildlife or portraits not so much.

Remote Shutter Release Cable. The remote shutter release cable lets you fire the camera without touching it. Sometimes at low shutter speeds just touching the camera to press the shutter button causes enough shake to blur your image. And for long exposures you can lock down the release for as long as you want to take very long exposures.  Some would argue that you can set a self timer on your camera to get the same effect and to a point they are right depending on how long the exposure is. They are inexpensive and you must get the one that fits your camera especially digital cameras .  They tend to have proprietary connections on some cameras .

_MSP9577_MSP9577 Hand Held Exposure/Spot Meter for film, Most digital cameras come with very good meters built in to the camera that will give you average meter readings which work well in most situation. But film cameras may have old meters that aren't accurate or not have a meter at all. A good meter when shooting film is essential I think. If you are a portrait photographer and use external lights. Meters come in handy when figuring out the exposure when using strobes. I think that this item should be purchases if you are primarily a film photographer or are going to use strobes. Meters are expensive and if you don't need one I wouldn't spend the money.

So those are the 6 things that were mentioned in the video but I would add maybe a camera strap. A neck one or a wrist strap to keep your camera safe when you are handing your camera so you don't drop accidentally .  Other than that I think that you can make great photography with the items listed above and really learn your craft with only these items. So until next week Get out and Shoot!

Hey if you want to check out my photography go to my instagram account Max Stansell Photography there are over 2000 post there. Here is the link

 Max Stansell Photography Instagram Link

 


Bikes in Photography #345

February 28, 2025  •  Leave a Comment

Hey Everyone! Hope your week and day are going well. This week I want to talk about something a little different. Bikes and Photography. If you follow me on social media you know I've been doing a lot of biking in the last few months and posting videos of my adventures. Now I'm not a big video guy but bicycles and video seem to go together quite well. I use a GoPro (an older one) and I use iMovie from Apple to edit my movies. I have taken most of my ideas from Robert my Photography Wingman who is an excellent video maker and story teller. Making video is a lot harder than making a photograph .  There is a lot to it and you must tell some sort of story when making the video. Then there is the audio that goes with it which may me more important than the video. I don't do a lot of talking in my video's mostly music which I try to find music that is free and that I won't infringe on anyones copyright . To me picking out the music is the hardest part because it becomes the backbone of the video. So lets talk about hardware that I use.

Being able to shoot steady video is a must and you should be able to do it safely. If you're on a bicycle and pedaling you don't want anything to distract you so you don't get in an accident. If you are holding your camera in one hand then that hand is not on the handlebars making it more dangerous. So I have my camera/cameras attached to something.  I have one GoPro attached to my handlebars via a snap mount. This mount uses magnets to secure the camera to the mount which makes removing it easer to change batteries or just remove the GoPro at the end of the day. I highly recommend these mount as I tried to do it cheaper with mounts I already had but didn't work nearly as well as the Snap Mounts do. The magnets attach to the GoPro and to the mount itself so they "Snap" together. When you take the GoPro off of the mount you can attach it to any metal surface and it will stick. Like a pole or refrigerator. It also opens up and can be used like a small tripod. The other mount I sometimes use is a helmet mount that goes on my helmet. This gives the viewer the point of view from head high so as I look around the video pans with me.  I can control the one on top of my head either by pushing a button or by using my phone via bluetooth. My phone is also attached to my bike handlebars and use it for navigation , milage and the such so with the tap of the screen I can turn the helmet camera on and off. The one on the handlebars I just use the button on the camera. I don't run the camera all of the time but take maybe 20 or 30 seconds snapshots of the ride along the way. Trying to pick out interesting things to see for the viewer. Then in post I put all of these little snapshots together to make a story.

Software: Like I said before I use iMovie . This is a very simple program that comes with Macs. It is very easy to use and it is drag and drop. You can insert Text and photo's into the movies you make along with the music clips that you are using. It puts everything on a timeline. You can cut and trim the video clips to make them more story telling and you can blend them together so the video is smooth not choppy .  There are much more professional video editing programs out there but for me this is the easiest one for me to use. When your video is finished you can export it out as a file or send it directly to Facebook or Youtube. I usually make a file and then send it to Youtube where I link it to Facebook if I want to . Depending on the quality that you shoot the video you can put out in 4k if you shot it in 4k. I usually shoot in 1080 that works for me. Here are some examples of my biking videos.

Autumn's EndNeuse River Trail 30.5 miles1st Bike Packing/Touring Trip

Please checkout my videos. Well that's enough for today on video and bikes. Until next week Get out and Shoot. 

Hey if you want to check out my photography go to my instagram account Max Stansell Photography there are over 2000 post there. Here is the link

 Max Stansell Photography Instagram Link

 


Landscape Photography Gear Pt. 4 Camera Bags and Inserts #344

February 21, 2025  •  3 Comments

Hey Y'all ! Hope this week is going well! This week is the last blog in the 4 part series of Landscape Gear. We have covered camera bodies, lenses, tripods and filters and this week we are going to cover bags and inserts. I have to admit I have a problem when it comes to bags I have been searching for the right bag for decades and have gone through many but have finally settled on a few that I have been happy with for a few years. I will go over what I think is the answer for a new Landscape photographer.

Bags come in a variety of sizes and shapes and have all kinds of things built into them but basically they hold our gear when we go from place to place. When we get there we take out our camera and they are an empty bag with a lens or so in them. For me the biggest consideration is comfort. It took me many years to figure this out. I aways seemed to get bags with all the pockets and gizmos until I figured out that comfort is the main consideration when getting a new bag. Whether it's a backpack or a sling bag it should be comfortable. With the weight of your gear the comfort should be the most important consideration. Of course protection of your gear is important. From bumps and shocks and from the weather. I would steer away from cheap bags although they might look good and have all kinds of compartments they are often uncomfortable especially when weighed down with gear. An easy way to get around this is with camera inserts. Camera inserts are containers that hold your gear. They are usually a rectangle box with padded compartments for your gear. This box with your gear can easily be put in an ordinary backpack that you already own and is comfortable. I use this method many times when I just want to carry my camera and maybe one lens. It is great for backpacking and hiking when you already have comfortable backpack to use. I also use it in a shoulder bag that I have that was really a large lumbar bag (fanny Pack) but this insert fits perfectly in. If you've been reading my blogs for a while you will know this bag as my purse that I carry my street stuff and sometimes my landscape if I have a short distance to walk to carry gear. 

Bags and inserts are very personal and must be chosen with care or you will accumulate a lot bags before you find the right one. I know I did and I sold or gave away all of the bags I didn't use except for a few. My main backpack now is a Shimoda Action X 30 liter bag. It is the most comfortable backpack that I have ever used made out of waterproof material and water resistance zippers. It has a separate place on top of the bag for things like a jacket or mittens. The purse I have already told you about which I really love and use all of the time. I have a few day hike backpacks an Osprey and a Mountain hardware that I can put insert in for day hikes and the such. I think that a good backpack for your camera gear as a landscape photographer is probably more practical than a sling bag for the walking and hiking you may have to do to get to the spot where you will photograph . Remember not to get a backpack that is too large. The bigger it is the more stuff that you will bring to weigh it down and make it uncomfortable.

There you have it the end of my 4 part series on Landscape Photography Gear. Hope you have enjoyed it and hope it helped a little when choosing gear for your landscape kit. Until next week Get out and Shoot. 

Hey if you want to check out my photography go to my instagram account Max Stansell Photography there are over 2000 posts there. Here is the link

 Max Stansell Photography Instagram Link

 


Landscape Photography Gear Pt. 3 Tripods and Filters

February 14, 2025  •  Leave a Comment

Hey Everyone! Hope your week is going well! This week is the 3rd in a 4 part series on Landscape Photography Gear. This week we are going to cover Tripods and Filters. Two important parts of the Landscape photography Kit. In Part 1 we talked about Camera Bodies and Part 2 Lenses and now in Part 3 Tripods and Filters.

Tripods. Since the Ansel Adams times to today a tripod is a useful piece of Kit for your Landscape Photography. With modern camera bodies and in camera stabilization tripods aren't as needed as they used to be. Some Landscape photographers don't like tripods at all but I think they do have their place although I don't use them as much as I used to. For shooting in low light conditions or where I want to show motion like waterfalls or capturing clouds crossing the sky. And in Astro Photography it's a must. So what kind of tripod? I don't think the make and model is as important as the quality of the tripod. Tripods are made in all different kinds of materials from aluminum , wood, carbon fiber and plastic. I prefer carbon fiber they are lightweight and strong. They also come in many price points from cheap to very expensive. I would land somewhere in the middle around 200 dollars you can get a fairly decent one. You want a tripod that is large enough to support your camera and your heaviest lens with ease. They come in weight ratings so make sure to find them while doing your research. If you have the choice between a cheaper one and a somewhat expensive I would go for the somewhat expensive . They will last a long time! I've got a travel tripod that I've had over a decade and I've just bought a heaver duty one in the last year because my gear has got heaver. I spent about 200 bucks for each.

Filters. Filters can be a very important part of a Landscape photographers Kit. There are really two types of filters that you should have. The first one is the most important items in your Kit is the Polarizer filter. A polarizer filter can take the shine and reflection off of shiny surfaces and enhance the colors of leaves and foliage. The polarizer can't be duplicated in photoshop and makes blue skies bluer and just enhances  your photos. A must have. The next filter is the Neutral Density filter. It cuts out the light and allows you to slow down your shutter speed. This works great for flowing water like a waterfall and makes the water blurry and smooth giving water that dreamy look. These filters come in different strengths or stops of light. The more stops of light the darker. A 10 stop neutral density filter is almost completely black. When shooting waterfalls a Polarizer to cut the glare off of the water and a neutral density of 2 or 3 will make great shots. Neutral Density filters also come in a Veritable type that will have say a 2 to 8 all built into one filter. Now filters also come from cheap to very expensive and the same rule I used with most things is not to buy cheap and not expensive somewhere in the middle will be a good quality.

Well there you have it 3 out of the 4 part series. So until next week Get out and Shoot! 

Hey if you want to check out my photography go to my instagram account Max Stansell Photography there are over 2000 post there. Here is the link

 Max Stansell Photography Instagram Link

 


Landscape Photography Gear Pt 2 Lenses

February 07, 2025  •  Leave a Comment

Hey Everyone! Hope you're having a great week! This week is Part 2 of our series on Landscape photography Gear. I have been shooting Landscape photography for quite a few decades and will try to pass on what I have learned by trial and error. And believe me there has been lots of errors! This week we will discuss the Lenses you will need for Landscape Photography. Through my travels and decades of shooting Landscapes I have gone through lots of different lenses from top of the line to the cheap kit lenses. I have gone through primes and zoom lenses and have come up with what I think you need in your Landscape photography lens Kit so lets get started. If you are new to photography you should match the correct lens to body. What does that mean? In the last blog where I talked about camera body and sensor size you should match the appropriate lens to body. You can't use a crop sensor lens on a full frame camera but you can go the other way around. If your confused get with a experienced photographer to help you through the process.

Zooms or Primes? Well during my time shooting Landscapes I have gone through phases where I shot only primes and phases where I have shot zooms only. After all of that trial and error I have come up with what I think its a good answer. You really might need both! LOL For over all general Landscape photography I think that Zooms are the best option. Let's say you're on a trail and can't get off of the trail a zoom is great at zooming in or out to get the composition that you want without leaving the trail. Zooms work great for this and the quality of zooms these days are fantastic. In years past it was primes that had the sharpness and contrast that you wanted but now with newer zooms you can't tell the difference. Now remember I said both. For general landscapes Zooms but for specialized I say Primes. What is specialized Landscape? I think that Astro/Landscape that a prime would be better. Mainly because you can get a wider aperture to get more light in for the shot. And also Macro I would prefer a Prime lens. But these are specialized areas of Landscape photography and are only needed if interested in those areas.

What Focal Length Lenses? Well this is a tricky subject and I will start and say it depends. I know that's a lame answer but it depends on what type of landscape photography you like. I would say look at some of your favorite photographers and their photos. Thats what your are going to try to emulate as a budding landscape photographer. So if your favorite photographer shoots wide angle shots I would get something like a 16-35mm lens But if you favorite photographer shoots isolated shots I would say a 70-200mm might work for you or maybe your in the middle and a 24-70 might be the ticket. Well look there I just named the holy trinity of lenses. the 16-35, 24-70, 70-200. These are all great choices to landscape photography. You need to find out what you like to shoot. Right now in my landscape kit I'm shooting a 20-70 and a 100-400 and that's all I'm carrying. On my last Fall Colors trip those are the only two lenses I took for a 5 day trip in West Virginia and they worked great. Now I have a 16-35 but haven't used it in a while. I didn't want for anything else on my trip . But that's me. You might be different. You need to find out what you like need. I do shoot astro occasionally so I have a 20mm that I use. Usually a 14 to 24mm primes are used for this. I only take this lens with me if I expect to shoot Astro. You may think that you need every lens that there is but honestly a two lens kit for Landscape is all you need a long and a short .  Say a 16-35mm and a 70-200mm would be great for most people.

What about Apertures? In an earlier blog I said that Aperture is the most expensive part of photography and it should come into play when buying and choosing a lens. The wider the Aperture the more you can isolate and blur or create bokeh in your photographs. Which is great if your taking portraits but in landscape you want as much of the scene in focus as possible.  So shooting at Wide apertures f/2.8 in zooms is not needed. These lenses are also very expensive. For example I have a Sony 20-70 f/4 lens cost is 998 on Amazon the Sony 24-70 f/2.8 lens newest version cost 2200 on Amazon. Big difference! So I'm saying if you are not going to shoot portraits you don't need the f/2.8 Zoom in any focal length . I think that if you get a constant f/4 lens you will be very happy in Landscape Photography. Most landscape shots are shot at f/8 or smaller like f/11 to get the most depth of field in focus. So spending the extra money to get the fancy lens for landscape is a waste if you ask me. I've had both and they are both great lenses but for what I shoot the f/4 lenses work best for me . Not only are they cheaper but they are lighter and smaller. Things I need when walking through the woods. Carrying around a 70-200mm f/2.8 is like carrying around a toddler all day. It just wears you out. With my prime lenses for Macro or Astro photography. For Astro I wouldn't get wider than f/1.8 a f/1.4 although is nice is twice the weight/size and cost where a f/1.8 will give you the results you need. For Macro a f/2.8 is the common Aperture. Remember the primes are specialties and not needed for general Landscape Photography.

Used or New? Well that depends on your finances. I would say that if you can afford newer lenses get them they are very sharp and any corrections are made in software. And they tend to be lighter. You can buy these used also but from a reputable  seller like KEH or MPB you still get a warranty although a shorter one. I like used and all of my lenses I buy used if possible since I'm on a fixed budget.

So in conclusion I would say get a short and longer zoom in your kit. Say 16-35mm and a 70-200. I would get them in fixed f/4 aperture. For specialty lenses like Astro or Macro I would get Prime Lenses as mentioned above. So until next week Get out and Shoot. 

Hey if you want to check out my photography go to my instagram account Max Stansell Photography there are over 2000 post there. Here is the link

 Max Stansell Photography Instagram Link

 

 

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